"Hellooo,
I'm doing an A-Level project on paper automata, and was wondering what you would consider the key aspects of a paper model. The visual output is not particularly important, I need to know the key aspects you would expect from any model.
Thanks very much!
TLear. "
This question was posted on the forum. I've moved it onto the blog where there is more traffic and am opening it up to everyone for their opinions.
I have a couple of initial thoughts; slightly disjointed but its been a long day: A question that has come up a couple of times in the past is just how pure you should be with your paper modeling. For example, I often use coins to give weight to my models but turn my nose up at cocktail sticks or bits of string. Thoughts?
Secondly: I always thought that an automata should tell as story, no matter how short. but does it really need too? Perhaps Kuchi-san here isn't an automata but just an animated model.
One other point. Automata should be in two parts. Box, with mechanism, preferably visible to the curious user, and scene on top of the box separated from the mechanism.
Over to you. I'm off for a glass of red :-)
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Ever one to jump on a passing band wagon, I have created a new model to celebrate the up upcoming royal nuptials. Tap the box and the flag waves vigorously. Celebrate in style with only minimal effort.
Paid members can download the model for free. Non-members can download it for a small fee. The file comes in colour and a mono version so that you can adapt it for your own celebration. Print out the parts onto thin card. (230 micron / 230 gsm) Score the dotted lines and cut out the holes. Carefully and accurately cut out the parts.
Fold the flag in half and glue it back to back to make it double thickness. Notice that the flaps at the bottom of the part are not glued together.
Once the glue is dry, carefully cut out the part.
Ta daa! (Nice nails!)
Fold over and glue down the stand to make it double thickness.
Fold up and glue down the long tab on the pendulum again to make it double thickness.
Fold round and glue down the tabs on the box sides to make triangular tube sections. These add rigidity to the box.
Glue the box top to one of the box side on the short side.
Glue the box top stiffener into place so that it touches the edge of the hole.
Glue the second box side to the first.
Fold round and glue together the box. Don't glue down the flaps on the base yet.
Fold up and glue together the pendulum as shown.
Glue the hinge to the back of the pendulum and the linkage to the front as shown.
Glue the second hinge to the back of the stand as shown.
Fit the pendulum into the box and glue the hinge to the lid. Make sure that it is free to move without binding on the box top.
Glue the support to the box top as shown. Join the two tabs together as arrowed above.
Glue the hinge on the stand to the support.
Glue the linkage to the stand.
Take four coins, wrap them in the coin holders. I used UK 2p pieces. (25mm diameter, 7 gram each)
Glue the coin packs to the pendulum. One to the front, one to the back. Once this is done you can gleu down the two flaps on the base.
Complete the model by gluing the hand to the stand. Move the box even just a little and the flag with wave enthusiastically!
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This model is a mechanism powered by a pendulum. It can be used as a starting point for your own automata or you can add the cute nodding sheep character. The download is available for free for members, (thanks you for your support!) None members can download the parts for a modest fee.
Print all the parts pages onto thin card (230 gram / 230 micron) except page four which should be printed onto thin paper. The first two pages are for the mechanism, the third page, the sheep character.
Score along the dotted lines and cut out any holes with a sharp knife before cutting out the parts. Both these jobs are easier on a full sheet of card.
Fold the end tabs of the two box sides up to make triangular sections.
Glue the two box sides together.
Fold down the ends and glue them down making sure that the box stays square.
Glue on the box top making sure that the flap marked front is at the front of the box!
Fold the long tabs down and glue them together to make triangular section vertical pillars.
Fold up and glue the two box stiffeners...
...and glue them into place inside the box in the positions shown.
Fold up and glue the bell crank.
Fold up and glue together the various linkages.
Glue the long link point to the pendulum.
Wrap the coin holder round three 25mm diameter coins (2p pieces) and glue them to the bottom of the pendulum.
Carefully join together the linkages with the paper hinges. Leave a very small gap (1mm) between each of the parts so that there is no glue on the crease.
Finish the mechanism by threading the parts together as shown in the picture then glue the pendulum to the top of the box and a bell crank to the box front.
At this point you'll have a working mechanism. Move the box and the pendulum will start to swing. The linkages and bell crank convert this motion into up and down movement at the push rod. Connect this to your own character to bring it to life!
If you want to try out a completed design keep going and add the nodding sheep to the top of the box.
Glue together the head and link point.
Glue the link point into the head.
Attach the neck to the head using a paper tab.
Glue a paper tab to the link point.
Fold round and glue together the body inner.
Glue the body inner into the body.
Glue together the body as shown above. Make sure that it is symmetrical.
Glue the paper tab from the inside of the head to the push rod on the box top.
Glue the neck to the body inner then glue the feet to the box top. When you are gluing the feet to the box, line them up so that the push rod doesn't touch the edges of the arch shaped hole.
That's it. Move the box and the sheep will start nodding. Now you have a fleecy friend who will agree with every thing you say!
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An animated paper octopus to download and make. Turn the handle and the double crank mechanism moves one set of tentacles slightly later than the other set giving this interesting fluid motion. The parts are free for members to download at the end of this blog post. None members can get hold of the parts file for a small fee.
There are two version of the model in the file, colour and line only. Print out the version suitable for your needs. Note that the colour version has a front and a back for each sheet. Print out the front, flip the card round and return to to the printer then print out the back.
You'll need to print out the last page, the tentacle page, four times so that you have enough tentacles!
Print out the parts onto thin card (230 micron/230gsm is ideal) Score along the dotted lines and cut out the holes marked with 'Cut Out'. Carefully cut out and collect together all the pieces.
Fold in half and glue together the linkage sides so that they are double thickness card. Set them aside until the glue is completely dry.
Once the glue is dry, cut out the centre hole with a sharp knife.
Complete the linkage sides by carefully cutting them out.
Use the end of a pair of scissors to smooth the inside of the hole. Notice that the card is now slightly mushroomed out. This helps the parts run smoothly on the completed model.
Glue the linkage sides to the appropriate inner linkage. (Match the correct colours together.) Note that the end of the inner linkage is lined up with the small red arrow on the linkage sides.
Glue the matching colour tabs to the end of the appropriate linkage.
Fold round and glue down the edges of the side pieces to make triangular sections. These will help make the sides of the box rigid.
Repeat the process for the tabs on the base of the box.
Glue together the box top and the slider tube as shown. Note that the tabs on the hole in the box top fold outwards.
Thread the slider tube up through the holes in the box top and use the tabs to glue it into place.
Glue together the inner push rod and outer push rod.
Glue the outer push rod side to the outer push rod. Note that the centre tab is folding upwards in the above picture.
Glue the outer push rod link point into place.
Fold up the inner push rod end as shown in the top picture.
Glue it into place inside the inner push rod lining up the parts as shown above.
Assemble the four crank parts as shown above. First fold round and glue down to make a diagonal piece then fold over and glue down to make this rigid square section piece.
Glue the two pairs of crank parts together as shown. Each pair has one short piece and one long piece.
Take one of the crank parts and thread the shorter of the two linkages onto the longer crank half. With the parts aligned as shown, glue the crank joiner to the crank shaft. Use the diagram and picture to help with alignment.
Thread the other linkage onto the long part of the other crank half.
Glue the crank to the crank joiner. Make sure that everything is lined up and square before the glue dries!
Fold round the ends of the crank joiner so they join the the crank parts together.
Finish off the crank assembly by gluing the small joiner tabs to the arrowed places. These will strengthen the finished crank.
Assemble the handle using the three steps pictured above.
Fold round and glue together the two square sections.
Fold up and glue one section into the other.
Roll round and glue down the long tab to complete the handle.
Glue together the eight tentacles using the top tab on each tentacle only.
Glue together the body as shown.
Roll round and glue together the tentacles.
Glue the body to the tabs at the top of the tentacles
Glue on the eyes so that they are centred on the point where the body joins the tentacles.
Work your way round the body gluing the middle tab to the adjacent tentacle.
Complete the tentacles by gluing the bottom tab to the adjacent tentacle. Note that the tentacles will now be curved slightly upwards.
Gently pre-curve the tentacles starting with a downward curve at the top and finishing with an upward curve at the ends. Looking good!
Thread the outer push rod into place into the slider tube. Thread the inner push rod inside the outer push rod. Use the picture above to make sure that you have the correct orientation.
Glue one of the box sides into place. Make sure that it is lined up accurately with the top of the box and is square.
Fit the crank through the hole in the box side. Note that the shorter linkage should fall under the inner push rod and the longer linkage under the outer push rod.
Glue the tabs to join the linkages to the push rods. Set the model aside to allow the glue to dry completely.
Thread the second side over the end of the crank and glue it into place. Again make sure that everything is lined up accurately. Let the glue dry on the side piece before testing out the mechanism.
Glue the two stand pieces into place so that the red arrows are lined up with the edge of the inner push rod.
Assemble the sixteen linkage parts. Note that the ends of the long pieces are squashed down to make a small flat area.
Glue the long pieces to the push rod. Note that they are marked 'L' and 'R'. Glue them to the left and right respectively.
Glue the linkages al the way round as shown.
Fit the body to the top of the push rod lining up parts as shown. Make sure that the eyes are pointing forward!
Glue the tentacles to the linkages. Note that there is a small dot on the tentacle to help with alignment.
Curve the end of the tentacle upwards to give an octopus like feel!
Glue the medium length linkages between the box top and the 'R' linkages using the grey areas for alignment.
Glue the shortest linkages between the L linkages and the grey areas on the outer push rod. Not that the tab connected to the push rod is folded upwards.
Glue on the handle to complete the model. Let the glue dry completely before trying the model out.
Turn the handle and be amazed at how the octopus moves!
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Happy New Year to you all! I've had a peaceful and relaxing time with friends and family. It's been great, now I've returned to the cutting board refreshed and reinvigorated.
I've got loads of new plans for new models and new idea for the website. Should be a fun year!
I'm starting off by creating an animated character model that uses the double crank mechanism. I think it'll be a fruitful mechnism that'll be a good base for many different mechanisms. I'm starting off with this octopus. This is the first draft, quite a few changes of scale and layout need making for the next version but as a proof of concept I'm pleased with it! The double crank make for an interesting movement. The legs, connected to the outer pushrod, swish downwards then after a small delay the body rises up. The result is a realistic fluid motion just like the real thing.
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The good news is that the butterfly model is complete and ready to go. The bad news is that it'll be tomorrow before it is available to download. I'm having all sorts of problems with my Internet connection so I don't want to risk writing loads on the blog and loosing it all. After I've posted this I'll be shutting everything down on the home network and restarting it all. Pah. Technology.
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I designed this tortoise model earlier this year, it has been buried in the blog for a while now, the more articles get added to the blog, (nearly 300 now!) the fewer people see the earlier treasures so I thought I'd pull out a few models and add them to the show case where everyone can see them. It is a free download for member otherwise there is a small charge.
If you missed it first time round I hope that you enjoy it!
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I've been updating the links and entries for the Logic Goats models.
Just like the Logic Gate in the modern computer, the output of the Logic Goat depends on its input. There are now four different Logic Goats to download and make.
And-Goat - The goat nods if you press the right AND the left button
Or-Goat - The goat nods if you press the right button OR the left button
Xor-Goat (Exclusive Or Goat) The goat nods if you press the left button or the right button but not if you press both.
Not-Goat - The goat nods if you are NOT pressing the button.
Download your own set of Logic Goats now!
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(YouTube!) The Pneumatic Giraffe! An air powered model to download, print out and make. The finished model is a simple wooden crate marked with the words. "Warning! Wild Animal"
All looks perfectly normal until you blow in the airhole on the side of the great when, Woooshhh! A Giraffe flies up out of the crate to see what on earth is going on!
As a member you can download the model for free at the end of this blog post. None members can download the file for a small fee.
The Pneumatic Giraffe comes in two versions, mono and colour, both of which are in the same file. Choose the version you prefer then print the parts out onto this card. 230 micron white photocopier card is perfect for the job.
Notice that the parts pages for the first three sheets of the colour version are marked front and back. Print out the front, flip the card over and return it to the printer then print out the back. Let the ink dry completely before moving on.
Solid black lines show where to cut. Dotted and dashed lines are score lines. Score the parts and cut out any holes with a sharp knife before cutting out the parts.
Fold round and glue together the neck piece marked #1.
Glue two tube stops into place on the grey areas. Two on each side to make a double thickness stop. This parts will stop the neck flying out of the giraffe when you blow into it.
Fold round and glue together the neck piece marked with #2.
Glue on the the #2 end cap then glue the second #2 tube stop on top of it to make it double thickness.
Glue together two #2 tube stops to make a double thickness. Glue them into place on the same side as the other tube stops but at the other end and inside - as shown above. Repeat on the other side.
Line up the two neck parts so that the small cut out is uppermost.
Carefully fit the #1 tube into the #2 tube.
Push it down to the bottom of the neck tube. Pull the neck in and out a few times to ensure that it moves freely.
Assemble the #3 tube in the same way with end cap and double thickness stop.
Fit the first two neck pieces into the third neck keeping the cut out . Move them back and forth to ensure everything is working smoothly.
Assemble the forth and final neck piece. This piece has internal tube stops but no end cap.
Fit the pieces together. Extend them and compress them a few times to make sure all is working well.
Glue the air tube into place on the #4 neck piece. Be careful to line up the crease lines with the end of the neck piece.
Glue the neck support into place.
Fold round and glue the two top tabs of the back sides to make triangular sections as shown. This will make the make the box strong and give it depth.
Fold round and glue together the box sides with the base piece as shown. Be as accurate as possible with your alignment.
Glue the neck and air tube assembly into place in the bottom of the box.
Glue the other side piece into place as shown.
Glue the long tabs of the two head sides into place on the head top lining up the end of the tab with the back of the giraffe horns.
Curve round and glue the rest of the head into place. Glue on the ears.
Fold round the tabs on the box lid and glue them down.
Fold round and glue the other sides to finish off the lid
Glue together the lid inner as shown.
Glue the lid inner into the box lid.
Extend the neck for easy access. Glue the head into place using the grey square for alignment.
That's it!
Once the glue is dry, blow through the hole in the base of the box and the giraffe will pop out of her crate.
Keep it on your desk at work and amaze your colleagues!
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The Odd Bot is a quick to build fun project that uses moire interference patterns to make the mouth appear to flicker. Lift the model up and down and the robo-lips quiver while the arms rise and fall!
Members can download the file of parts at the bottom of this post. Enjoy!
The model comes in two versions, coloured and line-only. For both models you will need two sheets of thin card. I use 230 micron board. You'll also need a single sheet of standard printer paper. The coloured version is printed on both sides. For each coloured sheet, print one side, flip the card over and return it to the printer to print the second side. Score the dotted lines and cut out the solid black lines. Carefully and accurately cut out the parts as you need them.
Fold round the core to make a square tube. Curl the two long flaps. Carefully tuck one end of the long flap in and glue it into place using the grey lines for alignment...
...repeat with the second long flap to make this oval shaped core.
Wrap the paper belt round the core as shown and glue it down. The belt must be free to roll round the core so make sure that there is no glue on the back of it.
Glue on the two legs as shown above, lining up the top of the legs with the edge of the core.
Roll the belt round so that the edge is lined up with the lower edge of the core as shown.
Spread a thin line of glue across the belt in the position shown.
With the top of the belt lined up with the top of the box (arrowed) press the thin line of glue down to the belt so that the whole assembly it is in the middle of the back of the grey box face.
Fold round the body and glue it down. Glue the body lid into place. The legs must be free to move up and down so be careful with your glue!
Pull the legs until you can see the semicircular grey area through the arm holes.
Carefully glue each of the arms into place on the core making sure not to get glue on the body
Fold each of the horns fold along the curved score line to make a pleasing 3D effect. Thread each of the horns through the holes in the washer then glue them into place on the body using the picture below as an alignment guide.
Curve the eye stalk round and glue the end to the back of the body. Complete the model by gluing on the 'tache and the feet.
Once the glue is dry move the body up and down for a pleasing optical effect! How odd is that!?
If you are member you can download the file of parts below. Just make sure you are logged in.
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