Become a Member for free
access to this and other files on the site.See the Membership page for more details.
Already a Member? Log in Here
Chameleon with pendulum power! Tab the box and the chameleon rocks back and forth just like the real thing.
Members can download the file from the link. Non members can download it for £2.50.
There are five sheets for this model, the first four should be printed onto thin card (230 micron 67lb). The final sheet, which has only one item, should be printed onto standard printer paper. There are two version in the file, one in full colour, one with outlines only.
Score along the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the pieces.
Fold up the two flaps to make right angled triangle tube sections as shown.
Glue the two box sections together and fit the lid into place. Fold the flaps front and back inside the box and glue them to the sides of the box.
Fold the pendulum in half and glue it together to make double thickness card. Fold the top over to ninety degrees.
Add the stiffener to the front and the paper hinge to the back. Try not to get glue on the crease on the hinge.
Assemble the box top stiffener. Glue it to the underside of the lid so that it is lined up with the back of the larger hole.
Drop the pendulum into the hole and glue the hinge to the grey area on the box top.
With some card off cuts make up two coin packs. I used 2 UK 2p coins in each pack. Each coin weighs approx 7 grams
Glue the coins to the front and back of the pendulum.
Fold up and glue all the legs to make double thickness card. Once the glue is dry carefully cut them out.
Fold round and glue down the leg supports making a triangular section.
Glue the matching piece onto the back. Fold the tabs front and back as shown.
Fold the tabs in half and carefully cut out the double thickness card.
Glue the tabs to the leg supports as shown.
This is the front leg support.
Glue the two back legs into place using the grey areas for alignment.
Glue the leg to the pendulum. Notice that the end of the leg doesn't touch the box top. Notice also that the top of the leg is lined up vertically with a point behind the hinge so that the legs as a whole are tilted back slightly.
The legs should look like this.
Glue together the tabs on the body head and eyes.
Slightly fold back each of the ridge pieces on the back and the head.
Assemble the body inner.
Glue the body together at the ridge pieces and the tail.
Glue the body inner into place lining up the front with the small black mark on the body.
Glue the head to the grey area on the body and the eyes to the head.
Glue the front leg to the leg support, use the picture to help with orientation. The top of the leg lines up with the top of the tab.
Fold up the foot piece as shown in the centre picture and glue it to the end of the leg so that the tabs are flush with the leg end.
Slot the front leg into place.
Slot the body onto the rear legs and slot the front leg tab into the hole in the box top arrowed.
Glue the other front leg to the body
Glue the feet to the box top. The vertical sections should be as close to the legs as possible without actually touching them.
Done! Tap the box or move it slightly and your chameleon will come to life!
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
Become a Member for free
access to this and other members only projects on the site.See the Membership page for more details.
Already a Member? Log in Here
I came across this file while I was tidying up my hard disk and thought I'd put it up on the site for members to download and make.
Print out the parts onto thin card and make your very own Flying Pig card. Great for when you've forgotten someone's birthday. "Send you a birthday card on time? Pigs might fly!" Print out, make, send to a friend!
Once you are done, pop along to the flying-pig website and have a look at the printed kits you can see there.
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
Membership, Membership+ or ricomplete CD ROM?
Which should you choose? Here are some benefits of each to help you choose.
- Membership:
- All the members only downloads: Free!
- Every project produced while you remain a members: Free!
- Reduced advertising on the site.
- PDF download of pages for you to print out at home.
- Everything you don't get for free is half price!
- Only $14.95 / £9.95 a year. What a bargain!
Membership Plus:
All the benefits of standard membership with the added bonus that everything is free. All the downloads, all the ebooks all the compliations. Everything. For as long as you remain a member. Awesome.
CD ROM.
Think of it as snapshot of Membership Plus. All the projects and all the instructions in pdf format ready to print out, shipped out to you anywhere on the planet. All the for the same price as membership plus.
...and finally.
To compliment the ricomplete CD I have released my first annual CD containing all the projects from a single year. The first of these is for 2011 and is available here and now!
This works as a sort of CD equivalent of standard membership. It will remain the same price as standard membership whilst the ricomplete CD will mirror the price of Membership Plus.
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
Become a Member for free
access to this and other files on the site.See the Membership page for more details.
Already a Member? Log in Here
In this gear train there are three sets of gears all connected together. The end result is that the speed of the handle on the side is reduced by 18.75 times. It is the same as driving a 150 tooth, 70cm diameter, monster gear with the eight tooth drive gear but with lots less teeth to make!
Print out the parts onto thin card. (230 micron, 67lb) Score along the dotted and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts.
Both main gears are constructed the same way. Each is made from two strips joined together to make a longer strip. Make sure that they are joined together straight. Start at one end and glue the teeth as accurately as possible to the grey pads. The tops of the teeth are light blue for easier identification.
Roll round and glue the strip ends together to make a toothed loop.
Glue the stiffeners to the gear inners on the grey areas. Fit one inner into the gear. Glue only the six tabs, lining the tabs with the edge of the gear outer (arrowed)
With an axle threaded into place for alignment flip the gear around and fit the other gear side back to back with the first. Make sure that the stiffeners are running at ninety degrees to each other. Slide the gear to one of the grey lines on the axle and glue it into place. Add a single support to each side to keep the axle square.
Assemble the eight tooth gear by folding it in half and gluing it down to make double thickness card then carefully cutting it out from the card square.
The above example uses one of the two shorter axles with the twenty one tooth gear and an eight tooth gear.
Add washers to each end. Make the thirty tooth gear in the same way but this time there is no eight tooth gear on the shaft.
Complete the gear set by gluing an eight tooth gear to the longer axle.
Assemble the box sides and the box end and glue them together. Notice that the triangular sections on the sides face inwards but those on the end face outwards.
Assemble and glue in place the top and bottom as shown. Don't glue the box closed yet.
Fit the two smaller gears into the box as shown and glue the box closed.
Assemble the two gear supports and fit the final gear into place so that it meshes with the eight toothed gear.
Assemble the handle in three steps.
Fold up and glue the two square section tubes.
Fold one tube into the other and glue it down.
Roll round and glue down the long tab to complete the handle.
Complete the model by gluing the stand to the base. Note that it only runs across half the depth of the box.
That's it. Turn the handle and see the big gear reduction. If you have been really accurate in your construction you should be able to spin the handle super quickly by turning the big gear!
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
Become a Member for free
access to this and other files on the site.See the Membership page for more details.
Already a Member? Log in Here
A fully working paper safe to download and make. Dial in your secret combination at the dial on the front of the safe to unlock the hidden drawer.
RI Complete : Here it is: Every download, every project, every e-book, every zine. Dozens and dozens and dozens of projects all in one place.
Order your CD here!
Print out the parts onto thin card. (230 gsm / 230 micron) and let the ink dry completely. Carefully score along all the dotted and dashed lines then cut out the holes with a sharp knife before carefully cutting out the parts. Accuracy is very important in this model to make sure that the locking sleeve moves up and down easily. Take care!
Fold over and glue down the three rotors so that they are double thickness card. Let them dry under a heavy book so that they stay flat.
Carefully cut out the centre hole then cut out the rotor.
Smooth the edges of the centre holes with a round pencil to make sure that there are no points that will catch as the rotors turn.
Fold up and glue together the four blocks.
Glue the blocks to the rotors in the positions shown. The block positions control the final combination of the lock so you might like to experiment with different block positions.
Assemble the axle tube and locate the top. Fit the first washer into place with the flat side at the top lining it up with the first grey line.
Slide rotor 2 into position with the writing forward as shown. Push the second washer up to the rotor and glue the tabs to the box - not the rotor! The rotor should be free to rotate. Make sure that the flat part of the washer is lined up with the previous washer. Glue the third washer to the shaft lining it up with the second grey line then fit rotor 1 in the same way as the previous one. It too must be free to rotate.
Fit the axle to rotor 3 as shown. Thread the rotor into place through the circular hole and out through the square hole. Carefully glue the two axle supports into place making sure that the side are lined up accurately.
Glue together the two parts of the box as seen above.
Fit the rotor pack into the box through the circular hole in the front of the box.
Glue the dial to the shaft so that the shaft is still free to rotate.
Glue the lower box cover to the box front round the dial.
Glue the upper box cover so that it holds the dial into place but the dial is still free to rotate.
Assemble the knob and glue it to the axle and the dial.
Assemble the two parts of the sleeve.
and glue them together.
Glue together the blade support and the blade.
Glue the blade to the blade support.
Slide the sleeve over the top of the box and push it down a little. Glue the blade support to the inside of the sleeve, lining the two flaps up with the two edges arrowed.
The result should look like this. With the rotor slots aligned vertically the sleeve should slide down and the blade will fit into the slot.
Glue together the drawer cover.
Glue the drawer cover to the box top. Make sure that the drawer cover and the box are accurately aligned with each other so that the sleeve can slide up over both.
Glue together the drawer handle and glue it so that it sits across the middle line of the circular hole in the drawer.
Fold up and glue the drawer front, then complete the drawer assembly.
Slide the drawer into the drawer cover. Lift up the sleeve, Spin the dial. Your safe is now locked.
Before you do anything else you need to write down the combination. Here's how you work it out.
Look at the rotors from the side of the box. To be unlocked you need the slots to be all vertical and lined up with the blade. Differences in construction mean that the safes will have different numbers.
Turn the dial clockwise two full turns, this should gather up all three rotors and by now they should all turn together. Continue turning until the slot in the front rotor, rotor 1 is vertical and note down the dial number.
Turn the dial back anti-clockwise at least one full turn until rotor two is gathered up the keep turning until the second rotor slot is vertical. Note down this number.
Finally turn clockwise again until rotor three, the one directly connected to the shaft, is vertical and note down this final number. These three numbers are your finally combination.
Try the lock out a couple of times to make sure that it works properly before continuing to the next optional step.
If you'd prefer the mechanism covered up you can follow these final step.
Slip the piece with the two cut-outs into place under the sleeve and glue it to the sleeve.
Fit the rectangular piece to the lower part of the box.
And to cover up the parts, assemble the cover and glue the two vertical tabs to the front and back of the box allowing the first piece to slide up and down.
Done!
Dial in the number...
Slide down the sleeve...
Open the box!
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
Become a Member for free
access to this and other files on the site.See the Membership page for more details.
Already a Member? Log in Here
Paper Bird is a pendulum powered project. Move the box, even slightly, and the bird comes to life bobbing up and down.
The download comes in both colour and line only for your own colour scheme. Print out the first two pages onto thin card. (230 micron / 230 gsm) The third page has only a few hinges. these need to be extra flexible so this page should be printed onto standard printer page. (80gsm)
Score along the dotted lines and carefully cut out the holes with a sharp knife before cutting out the parts.
Glue together the three parts that make the body.
Fold up and glue together the body inner then glue it into place so that the back edge lines up with the small black dot on the outside of the body. (Arrowed)
Glue the wide hinge and one of the two small hinges into place as shown.
Assemble the legs then glue them to the wide paper hinge as shown. Make sure not to get any glue on the crease.
Fold round and glue together the box top stiffener and glue it onto the underside of the box lid so that it is lined up with the edge of the central hole. Glue the two leg supports into place lined up with the edges of the small holes as shown.
Fold together and glue the long tab on the pendulum to make double thickness card.
Assemble the pendulum.
Glue the two paper hinges into place. The larger of the two remaining hinges is on the left and should be glued vertically down the pendulum.
Thread the feet through the hole in the box and line up the angled step with the top of the box before gluing it to the leg supports.
Glue the rest of the box into place.
Glue the box lid down.
Drop the pendulum into place in the hole in the top of the box and glue the hinge to the top of the box.
Fit the push rod between the pendulum and the bird.
Wrap two coins in some off-cuts of card. I used UK 2p pieces. These are 25mm in diameter and weigh 7g each.
Glue the coins to the end of the pendulum.
Glue the base to the box.
That's it! Taps the box and the bird will bob about pleasingly!
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
|
£29.95 (Price with free worldwide p&p) |
US $44.95 Price (with free worldwide p&p) |
Back by popular request!
The ricomplete archive contains every project from robives.com, every download (including instruction pages), every e-book, every collection all for the amazing price of only £29.95. That's dozens and dozens and dozens of projects all instantly accessible on your computer.
If you are a membership+ subscriber you'll receive a 50% discount.
The archive will contain all the project up to the day of purchase to include the very latest projects.
Rather than using the cart which is won't accept $US, I have used the PayPal system direct which allows me to add both £pounds;UK and $US.
Price is as follows:
Non Members - £29.95 / $44.95
Standard Members - £25.95 / $37.50
Members Plus - £14.95 / $22.95
If the wrong price for your membership is being displayed, make sure you are logged in. If that doesn't fix it, contact me and I'll be glad to help.Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
Become a Member for free
access to this and other members only projects on the site.See the Membership page for more details.
Already a Member? Log in Here
Here's a quick (faster than light!) model for members to download for free at the usual link. This flying saucer isn't animated but does look cool next to your computer screen. It might even ward off invading aliens! Have fun :-)
Print out the parts (either colour on mono) onto thin card (230 micron / 230 gsm) Score along the dotted and dashed lines then carefully cut out the pieces. Dotted lines are valley folds, dashed lines are hill folds, grey areas show where to glue.
Fold up and glue together the dome making sure that all the edges are lined up accurately.
I tried a couple of different ways of gluing the two sections of the saucer together. This technique seemed to work best.
Fold the tabs inward on the top and bottom of the saucer pieces.
Apply a thin layer of glue to all the tabs on both the top and bottom. With the two sections flat on the work-surface, join the two halves together to that the tabs are interleaved. Keep the edges lines up as accurately as possible.
Pull the two ends of the saucer together and glue them.
Fit the dome into place from the underside of the saucer.
Glue the three legs to the grey areas.
Glue the feet to the legs.
Engage! Make it so! Etc.
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
Become a Member for free
access to this and other members only projects on the site.See the Membership page for more details.
Already a Member? Log in Here
Pendulum power brings a whole new dimension to your paper animations. Touch a pendulum powered model and it comes to life, legs swing, feet tap, heads nod, even after you stop moving the model.
This member's only zine gives the low-down on using pendulums in your paper animations. Like the Lever Zine and Cam Zine before it I have twenty (Only 2 left!) signed and numbered zines printed out ready for the first donations of at least £2 / $3 - visit the donations page here and leave your details if you'd like one!
As a member you can download the file at the link above and print it out onto standard 80g printer paper. Make sure that you set the printer to 'Scale to Fit' so that it fits the whole thing onto the page.
Cut out the page along the thin black line.
Fold the sheet in half running your finger along the fold to make a crisp crease.
Open the page out then fold the two short sides into the middle.
Open up the page then fold the sheet in half long ways.
Open up the paper then use your sharp knife to cut along the fine black line in the middle of the page.
Fold up the sheet in the cross shape shown above.
Then fold it flat to complete the zine.
Da nah!
With the page un-folded the sheet should look like this. Solid lines are cut line, dotted lines are valley folds and dashed lines are hill folds.
INTERESTING LINKS
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
My second zine is done and ready to download for free at the link.
The instruction for construction are the same as for the Cam Zine. Blog post here and Video here.
While I am typing this I'm print out twenty copies as a special signed/numbered limited edition. If you would like to receive a copy simply make a donation of at least £2ukp / $3usd at the link above and let me know the address you'd like me to send it too. Hurry though, there are only 20 (All gone!) and the Cam Zines went fast!
This zine is on the subject of levers.
It is packed with all sorts of illustrations and facts belied by its compact size!
The finished zine should be like this where black lines are cut lines, dotted lines are valley folds and dashed lines are hill folds.
Keep up to date: Receive the latest blog post by email
Rate this post:
