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In this gear train there are three sets of gears all connected together. The end result is that the speed of  the handle on the side is reduced by 18.75 times. It is the same as driving a 150 tooth, 70cm diameter, monster gear with the eight tooth drive gear but with lots less teeth to make! 


Print out the parts onto thin card. (230 micron, 67lb) Score along the dotted and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts.


Both main gears are constructed the same way. Each is made from two strips joined together to make a longer strip. Make sure that they are joined together straight. Start at one end and glue the teeth as accurately as possible to the grey pads. The tops of the teeth are light blue for easier identification.


Roll round and glue the strip ends together to make a toothed loop.


Glue the stiffeners to the gear inners on the grey areas. Fit one inner into the gear. Glue only  the six tabs, lining the tabs with the edge of the gear outer (arrowed


With an axle threaded into place for alignment flip the gear around and fit the other gear side back to back with the first. Make sure that the stiffeners are running at ninety degrees to each other. Slide the gear to one of the grey lines on the axle and glue it into place. Add a single support to each side to keep the axle square.

Assemble the eight tooth gear by folding it in half and gluing it down to make double thickness card then carefully cutting it out from the card square. 

The above example uses one of the two shorter axles with the twenty one tooth gear and an eight tooth gear. 


Add washers to each end. Make the thirty tooth gear in the same way but this time there is no eight tooth gear on the shaft. 

Complete the gear set by gluing an eight tooth gear to the longer axle.


Assemble the box sides and the box end and glue them together. Notice that the triangular sections on the sides face inwards but those on the end face outwards.


Assemble and glue in place the top and bottom as shown. Don't glue the box closed yet.


Fit the two smaller gears into the box as shown and glue the box closed.


Assemble the two gear supports and fit the final gear into place so that it meshes with the eight toothed gear.


Assemble the handle in three steps.

Fold up and glue the two square section tubes.

Fold one tube into the other and glue it down.

Roll round and glue down the long tab to complete the handle. 


Complete the model by gluing the stand to the base. Note that it only runs across half the depth of the box.

That's it. Turn the handle and see the big gear reduction. If you have been really accurate in your construction you should be able to spin the handle super quickly by turning the big gear!


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Comments

Tuesday 20th Mar 2012 11:57

robives

robives's picture

tamaramonteau got the first one!

Thursday 22nd Mar 2012 14:28

michael42er

michael42er's picture

This gear train became a wonderful technique model. The sight is enormous already. I think that it can be combined also with a kinetic model. It already tickle in the fingers to build it.
Michael

Sunday 1st Apr 2012 17:32

maxlrainer

Just finished the gear train. I decided to print the gears on colored cardboard. I hope you like it.  As Rob announced, the gear train works in both directions. You can turn the handle and get a slow big wheel, or (after a few trials, until it ran in) move the big wheel an watch the handle rush.


Rob, I found out, that the End part is to long. It should have the same size as the Top and Bottom or the Stand.

Best wishes
maxlrainer


Monday 2nd Apr 2012 10:10

tamaramonteau

I have been contemplating the usage of gears and chains. Query - does the force required to move an object get easier on a multi-gear train or harder? I seem to recall something from school (three lifetimes ago). I know gear ratios change the end speed, but can trains reduce the amount of effort needed to move the object?

I've actually been wishing to design a couple of models, one like the house of automata, but I'd also like to build a marble run with tracks and either a chain or an archimedes screw to move the marbles up. I've even thought about a watch-mouse-like track changing lever, so when the marble gets to the intersection, its momentum forces a flip switch to change the direction of the track. (I think this should be y shaped). Other things, like spinners, can also be added to give the marbles something to interact with.

My only problem is HOW to make it. I've got a grand design in my head that might be a foot square or more. How does one translate an image into a pattern, anyway? I suppose I'll have to invest in an autocad or something.

Monday 2nd Apr 2012 12:38

Smelter

Smelter's picture

Before you "invest" your hard earned money, a lot of what you are talking about, has already been covered on Rob's site.

Have a look at these and let us know how you get on.

 

http://robives.com/blog/watt_linkages_download_and_make
http://robives.com/blog/creating_banana_blender_pt_1
http://robives.com/blog/marble_run_paper_mechanism_fun
http://www.paperrollercoasters.com/

 

Best regards,

Smelter

Thanks Smelter, that was really useful! It could be a full time job just cross linking related articles on the website - RI

Monday 2nd Apr 2012 15:19

tamaramonteau

Wow. I had no idea there were marble runs like that out there. Lots of great ideas. Thanks for the insight.

Sunday 15th Apr 2012 11:26

michael42er

michael42er's picture

Hello maxlrainer,

your colored model looks very attractive. It pleases me very well. Now still another idea is missing to use it for the drive of a kinetic model.

Michael

Sunday 15th Apr 2012 12:48

maxlrainer

Hello Michael,
I'm pleased, that you like my colored finish. Thank you. I already thought about using the gears to drive another model, ...

meanwhile I'm happy with the pure movement.

maxlrainer